The Soho Whisky Club is a members only bar, situated above the Vintage House, the specialist whisky and liquor shop in Soho on Old Compton Street.
From the outside, you’re barely aware of its existence. Once you’ve made your way through the side door and up the stairs however, the smell of clean wood, the piano-led music and the sheer volume of age-worn whisky bottles on display assure that this is the place for true whisky drinkers to be. Calm, quiet, informed and absorbing – there’s little to not be impressed by.
We popped in for an alcohol-free chat (it was after all the middle of a Tuesday afternoon…) with bar manager Patrick, and just had to stand and admire the charm of this elegant ’legal speakeasy’ before we could sit down and begin to talk whisky.
As we sit down, Patrick informs us that the club is run by the same owner as the shop downstairs, Malcom Mullin – who always had the idea of eventually opening a whisky bar since his father opened the location in 1940.
“It’s very relaxed. We have approximately 400 members” he enthusiastically describes. “There’s a real community feel to the place. We are a private bar, but we’re not poncey, and that comes through from the relaxed running. Members also have a vested interest in the club, so they really respect the rules and really behave themselves, which makes my job that much more enjoyable”
He continues; “On a Friday night we’re very busy, but things are far from crazy. We only allow 40 people in the bar at any given time, this keeps it comfortable, we hear over and over again how ‘nice is it to come in, be able get a seat and get attentive & excellent service’, it’s just what we do here. Outside in the heart of Soho is a riot in comparison. We’re that beautiful calm oasis away from all the madness ensuing on the streets below.
As we manage to break our stares from the mesmerising range of bottles set up behind the bar, we take a seat and really delve into what makes this place so appealing and unique:
How would you best describe your role in the company?
I run the bar.
Tell us a bit about your whisky background?
I’ve been drinking it for a while now. Believe it or not I’m actually Scottish, just with a dodgy accent. Whisky is very much a part of my heritage and I always remember my Dad and his friends drinking it when I was a kid. You go to any pub in the larger cities of Scotland and there will be 100 whiskies behind the bar. The barman will know his stuff too. It’s the national drink, one of biggest exports and we’re very proud of it. When one thinks of whisky, one thinks of Scotland, that’s a given, although things are starting to change. For example I tried an amazing Swedish whisky the other day.
How many people do you usually have behind the bar?
Normally one of us in the week, with two at the weekends. I have a right hand man called George who is super on it and really knows his drinks and cigars; he’s an important part of why this place works. It’s manageable in the week alone as neither of us are stuck for 20 minutes making an old fashioned. It takes two seconds to pour a whisky.
Is fine drinking a dying art? Would you say that young people aren’t interested in much beyond the surface value of alcohol?
In terms of sales, with the help of emerging markets and ‘new whisky territories’ such as Asia, consumption is very much on the ascendency. What we’re actually finding here is that we’re appealing to a much younger crowd – a lot of females actually, which is ace. I’d say the average age here is around 35- 40, whereas when you think of a private members clubs, you may have traditionally imagined a wonderfully polite older gent in a tweed jacket, but it’s just not the case anymore, certainly not in my experience. Of course we welcome people from all walks of life. Whisky is sexy right now, sales and interest in whisky are going through the roof, led by the famous blends – Johnnie Walker is a good example. People are interested and starting to ask us ‘what are the constituents of Johnnie Walker?’ – To which we can say ‘okay well there’s 27 odd single malts in a JW Blue, here they are, let’s try them’. This is one of the ideas of the bar, where we can offer people something a little bit special. (To clarify, older tweed wearing gentlemen are more than welcome at the SWC).
Is there a difference in approach towards the younger crowds?
As long as you’re over 18, we really don’t mind. We haven’t had to say no to anyone. What you tend to get, is people walk in and they’re immediately blown over. They can tell it’s a place you’re not going to turn up to get absolutely plastered and fall down the stairs – although that does happen from time to time. We manage to attract the right type of drinker. These are people who have an interest in whisky, are keen to learn more, or who already have a sound knowledge and want somewhere to come and appreciate it. Without really trying too hard, we have attracted the right clientele.
What kind of events do you host?
We have regular tasting events for our members. We also run tutored tastings for groups and a private ‘introduction to whisky’ event which we pair with food, cheese, chocolate, that kind of thing. We actually have a distillery tasting later in the week. That is with Glen Garioch. The global brand ambassador for Morrison Bowmore will be here, it promises to be a fantastic evening, these events are at no extra cost to paid members, we think it’s a cracking deal.
What do you think locations like this offer in terms of enhancing a drinking experience?
Well, we offer 400 single malt whiskies, I don’t know of many places with a range like that, certainly not in the heart of town. We have very competitive prices too, so once you have paid your membership fee, you can come and enjoy a dram or two that will not break the bank, some of our whiskies on offer are £3.95 a dram. You have the expertise of the staff, we welcome lots of questions, we like to talk to our members, put the time in and guide them through our range. They may say ‘I’ve tried this and want something similar’ we can help them, perhaps offer them something cheaper, younger, and better, that’s the wonderful thing about whisky, that’s why it fascinates me. Here, we are all very knowledgeable, and really is a beautiful bar.
What’s your most popular seller?
It changes, it really depends what we’ve tried and what we are recommending, a lot of members ask for recommendations, and although we are 100% independent, we have our favourites, like the next man, or women for that matter. The Mortlach 16, Highgrove Laphroaig and the Single Cask Aaran Malt have sold very well over the last few months.
Where else do you drink besides here?
Me and my fiancée drink in our local pub – The Alwyne Castle in Highbury. There are some really decent places in the area. In terms of drinking around here, Ronnie Scott’s and the Phoenix Artist Club are places I’d recommend.
What do you enjoy drinking besides whisky?
Beer &/or Ale.
Would you agree that Whisky is very much in its own league regading romantic ideas with alcohol?
It is. It’s a romantic drink and that’s one of the reasons people are attracted to it. You’ve got Scotland obviously which is a very romantic place that’s seeped in rich history, the whole romance of the distilleries, and their surrounding area, most distilleries happen to be out of the way (traditionally to be out the way of the excise man), so you find yourself in the most beautiful countryside a lot of the time, Scotland countryside + whisky = romance.
We’ve seen popular TV shows such as Mad Men have an impact on the grooming industry, have you found that it’s had a similar effect regarding the context of your business?
No one’s really brought that up specifically, but I’d imagine that it’s had an impact, certainly indirectly.
(We later learn from an American member that Mad Men has actually caused an upsurge in classic cocktails such as Rusty Nails and the favoured Old Fashioned.)
And lastly, what’s in-store for the future of the Soho Whisky Club?
Keep selling whisky, keep our members happy, keep the boss smiling, and onwards…
For further information regading the Club and for membership enquiries, you can visit their website here.
To get you in the spirit of sipping away on a fine whisky during summer, or to appropriately wear in attendance to such a club, our Havana-inspired Bright Leaf cologne makes for an ideal accompaniment.
